SHOWDETAILS (MEN) Magazine
Garments: focus on outerwear: long coats, reworked blazers, military jackets (bombers and field jackets), parkas, capes, cargo and cargo-like trousers, track pants, turtlenecks, knitwear, pyjama dressing, maxi scarves, collars, sneakers, shoulder bags.Fabrics:leather, fur (shearling), velvet, denim, wool, technical materials, quilting, jacquard, iridescent effects, glitter, satin finishes.Details: sportswear, utilitarian, western, military, hard-rock and ’70s details, extra-long sleeves, pockets, harnesses, double-breasted, assemblies, destructured, contrasting insets, embellishments, embroidery, brooches, crests, toggles, gold buttons, zips, drawstrings, studs, rhinestones, laces, ribbons, fringing, frayed hems, animal prints, psychedelia, checks, graphic details, skulls, cartoon prints, floral motifs, all over, orientalism.Colours: blue, shades of grey, black, brown, red, military green, metallic silver.
It is no stretch for Jil Sander, well known for its rigour and minimal aesthetic, to choose the severity of military iconography, with a particular focus on outerwear – house-robe-coats had funnel necks and cross-body harnesses were also seen on blazers and jumpsuits. The same inspiration was used for chunky sweaters, featuring zips and shoulder patches, and for the colour palette in shades of green, grey and black.
Balmain‘s military theme went for sexy hussars in cropped cadet cassocks – with gold buttons and/or rows of toggles and obi sashes with hanging ties and tassels – over skinny trousers worn in or outside black leather boots. Jackets and sweaters were decorated with crests and metallic details, checks or damier patterns in black and red or black and white, as well as other military ornaments and details such as gilding, quilting and Fabergé motifs.
Dolce & Gabbana‘s aristocratic Sicilian cowboys bared little flesh and lots of embroidery, with tailored coats and suits (including some pyjamas) packed with guns, horseshoes, pocket watches and floral appliqués. All over decorations were also used on jeans, leather jackets, crew neck knits, chunky sweaters and shirts.
Prints and bold colour injections abounded in Lim and Leon’s collection for Kenzo, featuring pieces packed with graphic details and all over optical motifs and knits and shirts with bold signature italics. Bright colours and glossy or iridescent effects emphasised the embellishments, especially in the second half of the show.
If a collection draws inspiration from the work of Gilbert & George, borrowing archive works, it is bound to have some ‘strong’ content. Jeremy Scott forMoschino added spray effects, graffiti slogans and floral motifs taken from the British artists’ work to ‘collage’ clothes already saturated with colour. The decoration excess even spread to the shoes.
Classic tailoring evolves in the skilled hands of Stefano Pilati, who at Ermenegildo Zegna made use of his years with Saint Laurent to produce a collection focused on the very concept of couture, men’s high fashion embellished with lots of decoration. Formal coats and suits featured tone on tone jacquard, knitwear had 3D effects, beads and crystals illuminated the eveningwear.
Tailoring and sportswear met on theDior Homme runway, where Kris Van Assche delved into ’90s skate culture; the result was pieces and outerwear in which black duetted with red (even in the grungy check patterns), blazers had contrasting trims, trousers were oversize, headpieces featured pompoms, gloves were fingerless, while a bow-tie gave a retro dandy feel.
The English tailoring tradition was revisited by Sarah Burton forAlexander McQueen by exploring the 19th century interest in collecting, with moths and butterflies reproduced on jackets, suits and sweaters, or Renaissance oil paintings brightening velvet. The Victorian allure adapted well to the punk edge given by metal chains acting as harnesses and fake piercings at the side of the models’ mouths.
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