SHOWDETAILS (Women) MILANO Magazine
The age of minimalism is over and optimism returned invading the Milan runways. Everything was abundant, rich and colourful: the shows broadcast confidence, strong will and creativity. Treated with the dignity it deserves, fashion is finally being taken seriously and is behaving accordingly. It has a free rein to tell stories with clothes and spares no expense to do so. The shows were explosive – each one providing fifteen minutes of pure aesthetic enjoyment: not just clothes but live performances, fusions of the arts and music. There was a desire to have fun and leave the crisis behind. As often happens with art, fashion seems to have captured a positive feeling that in a few months’ time could become a reality in the clothes we wear. Feeding on enthusiasm and shine, Shiny Happy Women are covered in sequins, crystals, jet, beads, gold, rhinestones and glossy fabrics. Shine is not reserved solely for eveningwear, but appears on accessories suitable for any time of the day, on wool tights, set into serious tweed, or slipped into the pleats of skirts. These are clothes for a modern-day princess who dazzles with every confident step she takes and is proud of the dream she has built for herself. Just Chilling responds with a lover of the cold, wrapped cosily in furs, layers of wool, cashmere jumpers, big coats and oversize down jackets. She is fine because she has found a way to be sexy, despite revealing nothing. She fears neither the cold nor anything else, as she protects herself with soft body shields, military uniforms and airy furs. Seduction lies in what is not seen, in the idea of uncovering what lies beneath. Punk’s not Dead, quite the opposite. Judging from the runway, it’s alive and kicking. The designers all celebrated the fortieth anniversary of this subculture, which continues to produce imagery, exerting an influence over style. The biker jacket, whose lovers never really cast it off, made a come-back either in its pure form or in many other variations. Checks and tartan with a ’90s edge gained new life and went beyond grunge. Punk is not just about leather and studs, neither keeping to a particular style but it’s especially breaking the rules. And the woman we will see next winter is anything but conformist. MUST-HAVES 720 Garments:furs, down jackets, generous coats, parkas, cloaks, pea coats, military jackets, capes, biker jackets, varsity jackets, bombers, suits, pyjama-suits, ski suits, sleeveless dresses, cardigans, tops, sweaters, little jumpers, shirts, cropped, cigarette or soft trousers, minis, trapeze or straight skirts, sparkly wool tights, scarves.