Heritage is the word of the season. But, this is about Heritage 2.0 – looking backward for inspiration, whether that be to a specific fabric construction from the past or a traditional dyeing technique that has been lovingly bequeathed from generation to generation, but forward-thinking in terms of sustainability and improving eco-credentials.
In fabrics, there is real feeling for the late 1980s early 1990s aspect of open-end denim, but this time all the performance requirements that we have come to expect (comfort, ease of movement, recovery, durability etc.) are inbuilt, so the fabric may look like its rigid, slightly hairy and itchy ancestor, but it performs for today. Inspiration from artisanal dyeing techniques (such as Shibori, batik, and Katazome) creates beautifully textural, indigo surface designs. Slogans and excessive patching and embroideries are other ways to elevate and decorate surfaces.
Stretch continues to play a leading role, elevating fabric performance and comfort both for men and women. Bi-stretch is a buzzword. When it comes to color, we see a brighter, more saturated indigo blue coming forward. However, milky blue hues and really pale shades that creep all the way to white are also very important. In dark indigo and grey denim, a dusty, sanded outlook is key. Silhouette-wise it’s all about exaggerated shapes and playful proportions.
In our Denim Most Wanted styling trends, we see a waistcoat revival, elegant overalls, and modern trench coats. A subtle layering of assorted blues show individuals are not afraid to go all out for a total blue look, but patchwork is still sowing its way into many themes. When it comes to silhouettes, think big with over-sized denim overcoats making a statement for the girls and baggy, tapering chinos stepping up for the guys. This brand new Fabric News feature highlights some of the latest innovations and key developments from a selection of the top denim weavers, finishers, and garment manufacturers.
From high-tech and ‘connected’ denim to authentic, artisan hand-crafted, the sheer scope of what is happening right now in the denim world is inspiring and sustainability is not just the buzzword of the moment, it is the premium future focus. In this season’s Fabric Direction, we find the attention focused on highly decorative and ornate surfaces with patches, embroideries, and trimmings used to embellish and adorn. Traditional Shibori, batik, and Katazome dyeing techniques inspire textural indigo surface designs. The late 1980s/early 90s aesthetic is also apparent in open-end aspects in pale indigo, milky blue, and off-white tones. But, recycled and organic yarns, new-tech (high visual impact, low environmental impact) finishing techniques and, above all, upping the game in terms of overall eco and sustainable credentials is what it is really all about.