Our stories explore the relationship between digital and analog design processes, taking inspiration from the Met’s Manus X Machina exhibition and the deconstructed, reimagined urban aesthetic pioneered by Vêtements. As our lifestyles become increasingly multifaceted, a new utilitarian approach is applied to multi-functional accessories for the urban nomad. Collapsible, customized and softly structured silhouettes are inspired by Issey Miyake’s ‘zen basics’. In stark contrast we see the evolution of honest and authentic hand crafted design, with a focus on lost and found eclecticism and loved and lived-in textures. Relaxed, effortless soft shoppers and hybrid bucket shapes reflect the desire for easy living. Sun-baked vegetable tones and dried taupes are boldly contrasted by acidic brights, adding a vibrant zest to this season’s free-spirited attitude.
TRANSLUCENCE & TRANSPARENCY MALLEABLE SOFT STRUCTURE
Color Inspiration is found in the art of reflection and illusion. Loewe’s vacuum formed-like, plastic bags (seen in the top left image opposite), in their signature deconstructed style, toy with the idea of the artificial and super synthetic. At the London Design Festival, designers explored levels of opaqueness and the behavior of light with immersive glass balloon installations.
Pantone Pastels with a milky quality and softened rose tones meet barely-there blues that are given a futuristic look and feel when applied to creamy soft leathers, plastics, and nylons. Second skin nudes in plasticised patents and illusionist organza are juxtaposed by subtle four pops.
Items play with contrasting opaque and translucent blocking, while embossed plastics add a curious level in-between. Pleats, supple folds, and oversized knots create the illusion of movement and fluidity in softly structured silhouettes.
WORN AGAIN TEXTURES ORGANIC & IRREGULAR SHAPES
An exploration of the earth’s raw elements and a heightened fascination with traditional analog processes including weaving and basketry inspires an authentic and worn shoreline look and feel. For additional inspiration look to the freehand linear drawings of Matisse and Ellsworth Kelly.
A natural, tonal medley of earth browns and off-whites derived from rugged coasts, sit alongside deep ocean blue in dry canvases, loose hopsacks, and nets. The understated palette is lifted by roasted cocoa brown and measures of sun-soaked yellow.
Details such as oversized knots, rippled textures and the hand-stitching nod to an authentic nautical look, while hammered and folded metals are paired with twisted leather braiding for an ocean-salvaged aesthetic.
AMPLIFIED FUNCTIONALITY SUPERGRAPHIC & SUPERSIZE
Here, we are inspired by the tongue in cheek, consumption-influenced fashion of Alexander Hackett (aka A.L.C.H) and textile artist, Clementine Mom. An inside out, ‘cut & paste’ approach to design, as pioneered by Vêtements, looks at the science of manufacture with updated branding placements and exposed components.
Sports focused palette is dominated by black, cobalt and cyan with complimentary pops of yellow and magenta used to highlight exposed fastenings and construction details. Acid yellow applied to sculpted silhouettes and neoprene adds kinetic edge.
Multi-functional designs feature street-style hardware detailing. Clean bonded fabrics are amplified with embossed or plastisol printed graphics. Faux trim or construction detailing is contrasted by an excessive use of webbing and taping.
HOMESPUN & HANDCRAFTED AUTHENTIC TEXTILE INTEREST
Textural hand-woven and patchworked textiles are, this season, inspired by the work of textile artists, Ann Cathrin November Hoibo and Suchitra Mattai. A feeling of reimagined lost treasures and discovery is explored through eclectic trinket details and primitive-inspired surface designs.
Baked clay tans are layered with spiced oranges and all-natural vegetable notes of sage and saffron on a base of pure off-whites. Further tonalities are explored through variations in weave density and hand-dyed fabrics.
Handwoven fabrics, thread fringing tassels, and whip stitching continue the artisan trend, but this is evolved through the addition of hand-painted leathers and tapestry paneling.